Mobile Bay Reef Keepers

just want to make a place were everyone can post there ways of keeping the tank nutrients under control
that way other members can refer back to this page when they need advise on lowering nitrates, phosphates ect....

This is not a place for debate. Just a place to put all known to work info

thx for all your leasons learned the hard way and allowing us to learn for your experinces

well i guess ill go first
i use a fuge with cheato combined with dsb, and phosban in a tlf reactor to keep all my nutrients low in my tank
i have ordered npx pellets so soon i will take out the phosban and install biopellets
i do (2) 5g water changes a week,

1) 10% WC every other week.
2) Daily dose of AZ-NO3
3) GFO in media reactor
4) Keep skimmer cup clean for best efficiency
5) Macros in sump
6) Try to not over feed

I've tried quite a few different methods over the years. Everything from protein skimmer only with live rock/sand, to methods that were heavily reliant on chemical dosing/replacement (like organic carbon dosing). Currently, I've found myself embracing simpler methods, similar to when I first started the hobby. What I use now is something like the following:

1. Lots of water motion--anywhere from 100-200x turnover of very broad, diffused water flow.

2. Heavy plant growth, fueled by very intense lighting

3. Lots of diversity in both sand and rock fauna--the more crawlies, the merrier for me

4. Heavy feeding

5. Activated carbon changed regularly

6. Judicious protein skimming

7. Very occasional water changes

Amphiprion please explain your methods in more detail and the theory behind how your method works

thx

jt3069 wrote:Amphiprion please explain your methods in more detail and the theory behind how your method works

thx

Not really that much to elaborate on, really. That's one reason why I like it

Basically, I am just balancing a high energy input system. This can be tricky at first, especially if you aren't used to it and it involves a lot more food input than most people are comfortable with. If you have ever had a "high tech" freshwater planted system, you will be far more familiar with the general idea (except with food, not necessarily all fertilizers). The idea is to provide nutrients at a threshold that is enough to jump start plant growth (higher plants, not microalgae) to effectively outcompete algae. This can be done at levels well below detection limits, thanks to the efforts of the plants themselves. This can be done with macroalgae especially, but seagrass also works, but is slower (but looks cooler, IMO). Carbon is supplied through alkalinity and CO2. Iron and trace elements come primarily from the food, which has quite a bit in it. Luckily, the added food also encourages lots of animals in sand and rock, which can further enhance filtration if you have a deep sand bed or any sand bed, really. It is also good for rooted plants. This is all basically what happens in the ocean in an ideal setting. The system as a whole moves to balance itself and the plants take center stage. This can be done in a variety of ways--I've just chosen to make it my main display that does all the real work, not a refugium, etc.

LETS KEEP THIS GOIN ANYONE ELSE?

TO INCLUDE BUDDYS POST
I BELIEVE THAT CAL, ALK, MAG, POTASSIUM , ECT... IS A PARA
SO PLZ POST HOW YOU KEEP YOURS IN CHECK
THX

what equipment and additives is everyone using to keep their numbers in check? I want to start keeping more SPS's but am having trouble keeping my alk and calc numbers in check. I would like to keep my calc around 460-480 and my alk between 8-10...

I USE KALK-2 IN A GRAVITY FEED ATO SYSTEM WITH TRACE ELEMENTS ADDED EVERY WEEK OR TWO
I SUPPLEMENT IODINE EVERY THREE WEEKS (EVERY THING IS ADDED AT A SLOW DRIP USING GRAVITY FEED ATO)
STRONTIUM AND MOLYBDENUM ONCE A MONTH

BUDDY WITH SPS I HAVE FOUND THAT YOU HAVE TO SLOWLY ADD CAL, ECT...... BUT BE AS CONSISTANT AS POSSIBLE
THATS WHY I HAVE GRAVITY FEED ATO LESS CAN GO WRONG AND I CAN WALK AWAY FROM IT FOR A WEEK AT A TIME

I would like to keep my calc around 460-480 and my alk between 8-10...

IT WILL BE HARD TO KEEP SUCK HIGH CAL, AND IF YOUR NUTRINETS ARE LOW YOUR TANK WILL LIKE ALK AT 6-7 ANY MORE AND YOU COULD CAUSE RTN OF YOUR SPS

Here is a link that can help you out on keeping your calc and alk in check

http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2002/11/chemistry

jt3069 wrote:

I would like to keep my calc around 460-480 and my alk between 8-10...

IT WILL BE HARD TO KEEP SUCK HIGH CAL, AND IF YOUR NUTRINETS ARE LOW YOUR TANK WILL LIKE ALK AT 6-7 ANY MORE AND YOU COULD CAUSE RTN OF YOUR SPS

That only seems to happen with organic carbon dosing and higher alkalinity, not necessarily low nutrients. The mechanisms aren't really clear, either. In the absence of organic carbon dosing, higher alkalinity works just fine and can increase calcification rates, since it is typically the major limiting factor in the whole process.

As far as what I dose for calcium and alkalinity, it tends to be a bit of everything. I only use kalkwasser while my protein skimmer is online. The best thing about it is that it is a comprehensive supplement and only needs one pump channel. However, with the high photosynthesis in my tank, if I dose it without aeration from the skimmer, pH climbs into the upper 8 region. If the skimmer is off and levels need to be bolstered, 2 part comes in handy. I also use dry baking soda and anhydrous calcium chloride for the occasional boost. Magnesium is sparingly dosed, though it rarely depletes in my system, due to relatively low demand. Alkalinity is, by far, in the most demand due to the carbon needs of my seagrasses.

The kalkwasser is dosed via a spectrapure UPLC, which keeps everything topped off. I used to utilize a liter meter + 2 channel pumps for 2 part, but the demand is low enough now that manual dosing every couple of days is sufficient for that.

I am fairly new to the hobby and am trying to develop a system to keep my parameters in check. Also, I am trying to figure out which parameters I need to watch closely and which ones I can mostly ignore. I am finding a lot of conflicting information on what the parameters SHOULD BE. Presumably everyone wants to keep certain parameters at zero, like nitrates and phosphates. What is your "target" value for your parameters? Specifically, temperature, salinity, alkalinity, calcium, and magnesium? Maybe strontium, iodine, potassium, and silica? Others?

Here is a list of what you should aim for in your tank:

Parameter Recommended Reef Tank Value Ocean Value

Calcium 380-450ppm 420 ppm
Alkalinity 2.5-4 meq/L 2.5 meq/L
7-11 dKH 7dKH
125-200 ppm CaCO3 125 ppm CaCO3
Salinity 35 ppt 34-36 ppt
sg=1.026 sg=1.025-1.027
Temp 76-83° F
pH 8.1-8.3 8.0-8.3
Magnesium 1250-1350 ppm 1280 ppm
Phosphate <0.03 ppm 0.005 ppm
Ammonia <0.1 ppm <0.1 ppm
Silica < 2ppm <0.06-2.7 ppm
Nitrate <0.2 ppm <0.1 ppm
Nitrite <0.2 ppm <0.0001 ppm
Strontium 5-15 ppm 8 ppm
Boron <10 ppm 4.4 ppm


The bolded items are the ones to keep your eye on and test regularly. The others basically never (assumeing the tank is cycled).