Plumbing tips?
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- Scott
- Goby
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Plumbing tips?
I am plumbing my tank and wondered if anyone had any plumbing tips they wanted to share? Anything at all might be helpful, all I know about plumbing is that hot is on the left and detritus goes downhill.
I haven't gotten to the point of leak checking, so I don't know if I am having problems or not. One of the main things I am worried about is that the PVC cutter does not appear to be cutting a quite a 90 degree angle. I am using plumbers silicon for the drains and input on the CL an I am going to glue the outputs. Does anyone see a problem with that?
TIA,
Scott
I haven't gotten to the point of leak checking, so I don't know if I am having problems or not. One of the main things I am worried about is that the PVC cutter does not appear to be cutting a quite a 90 degree angle. I am using plumbers silicon for the drains and input on the CL an I am going to glue the outputs. Does anyone see a problem with that?
TIA,
Scott
Wanted: to set up a tank again.
The hand held pvc cutter is an awsome tool that cuts straight and easily with nothing to sand. I wish I owuld have had one years ago. MAybe your pvc cutters are not the same.
A perfect 90 degree angle is optimal but in no way necessary especially on glued fittings.
The plumbers silicone worked well for me on the drain lines.
Use unions everywhere you get a chance.
Use check vavles on all drains.
if you use threaded bulkheads make sure to line us whater inner fitting you are using before tightening(siliconing) the bulkhead. Examp. If you have a threaded bulkhead you are using or a drain line. If you plan to use a stranier then you can ad a 90 degree elbow on the inside of the tank (screwed in the threaded bulkhead). this will allow you to angle the elbow so the strainer will work properly. By tightening it into position first then you can "roll" the bulkhead to make the strainer angle correctly and tighten down. Is that clear as mud...you probably already new that though. I learned the hard way
Brace the plumbing so the weight of it is not on the bulkheads...especially if you have a long run of pipe and an inline ball valve.
Ummm... thats all I can think of..... Work fast with the pvc glue
Can't wait to see it up and running.
![Confused :?](./images/smilies/icon_confused.gif)
The plumbers silicone worked well for me on the drain lines.
Use unions everywhere you get a chance.
Use check vavles on all drains.
if you use threaded bulkheads make sure to line us whater inner fitting you are using before tightening(siliconing) the bulkhead. Examp. If you have a threaded bulkhead you are using or a drain line. If you plan to use a stranier then you can ad a 90 degree elbow on the inside of the tank (screwed in the threaded bulkhead). this will allow you to angle the elbow so the strainer will work properly. By tightening it into position first then you can "roll" the bulkhead to make the strainer angle correctly and tighten down. Is that clear as mud...you probably already new that though. I learned the hard way
![Twisted Evil :twisted:](./images/smilies/icon_twisted.gif)
![Razz :P](./images/smilies/icon_razz.gif)
Brace the plumbing so the weight of it is not on the bulkheads...especially if you have a long run of pipe and an inline ball valve.
Ummm... thats all I can think of..... Work fast with the pvc glue
![Very Happy :D](./images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif)
Can't wait to see it up and running.
"Well......maybe I did get alittle carried away! "
if you have 60 tooth blades those are great for cutting pvc do it all the time at work that way ...hey salt if you put check valves on the drain you will be putting it in backwards wont you ...i have always put in on the returns .....now just have ball valves on all plumbing no checks at all i found that when they get dirty they dont work well any ways ....jmo
- Scott
- Goby
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Well, I got it dry fit. I have attached some pics. If it looks like I have done anything wrong point it out. This is my first attempt at plumbing a CL and sump. I am going to use the plumber's silicon on all drains and pump inputs and glue all returns and water test it tomorrow. I used no check valves, I didn't think they were necessary and have not heard good things about them.
What do you think?
What do you think?
- Attachments
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- Back of tank
- tank pictures 001.jpg (161.89 KiB) Viewed 8301 times
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- Returns from CL and sump
- tank pictures 002.jpg (148.22 KiB) Viewed 8301 times
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- Returns from CL and sump
- tank pictures 003.jpg (155.75 KiB) Viewed 8301 times
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- Under tank right side
- tank pictures 005.jpg (178.25 KiB) Viewed 8301 times
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- Sump
- tank pictures 006.jpg (173.17 KiB) Viewed 8301 times
Wanted: to set up a tank again.
i dont see anything wrong other than all the 90 they will slow the flow down ...not sure how much flow you are looking for but i can tell you this i have a mak 4 on my cl with 1 line going to 2 1in outputs form the bottom of the tank and it was not much lost a lot of head pressure had to put 1in to 1/2in reduceron each to get the flow i wanted ....jmo
I know it's way late for this sort of opinion, but that's WAY overkill IMO on all the plumbing, number of sprayers into the top, etc, etc... overcomplicated. It looks well assembled though! I always just used primer and PVC glue on all PVC, never any silicone. So, what's your turnover going to be on this setup? This is gonna be SPS, from the amount of flow, I take it?
-Josh Murrah
- Scott
- Goby
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Yes, SPS dominated. The two loclines from the rear are from the Mag 12 and the 4 outputs on the front are from the Gen X Mak 5. for a total of about 2700gph. I will have to see how well it works and make adjustments as needed.
I am having a bit of problems with the drains. When I turn on the Mag 12 the tank tries to overflow. Working on the solution now, but it seems that 2 1" drains should drain well more than about 450 gph each.
I am having a bit of problems with the drains. When I turn on the Mag 12 the tank tries to overflow. Working on the solution now, but it seems that 2 1" drains should drain well more than about 450 gph each.
Wanted: to set up a tank again.
- snoopdog
- Yellow Tang
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I had a 1 inch drain on the 75 gallon with the Mak 4 and the 1 inch drain kept up just fine. Make sure there is not too much backpressure on the drain (not submersed) and they should drain fine.
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"We ate sand."--Cellmate
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"That's right."--Cellmate
- Scott
- Goby
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Define "backpressure" for me. I found that if I have the open end of the T that is connected to the bulkhead I get more flow, but a lot more noise. I am sure that I am not returning more than 1000 gph to the tank, but the drains don't seem to be keeping up. I may try and remove some 90's and use 45's instead. I only have 2 90 degree turns on one drain and 3 90 degree turns and 2 45 degree turns on the other.
I may have to rethink my drain plan.
I may have to rethink my drain plan.
Wanted: to set up a tank again.